If you're a jogger then first thing in the morning before non joggers are up is best. After this you may get noticed and I can't imaging that's much fun, eh?
For some of us mornings are the times when one's consciousness gradually becomes self aware in direct proportion to the decency of the coffee available. At home the Gaggia and La Pavoni grinder ensure a reasonably swift transition twixt unconsciousness and alive if not alert. Here we have some half decent coffee, already ground and vacuum packed which is filtered and although it's rather nice it doesn't deliver the kick that the real thing does.
However, no worries. I can do shoppering and carry bags without totally being aware of my actions, as long as I do what I'm told it's OK. By lunchtime I'm there, the next few hours of the day are as good as it's likely to get which is very appropriate as the fleet returns between 1500 and 1700. This year with an iPad AIS has given a heads up and the binoculars on the balcony confirm the imminent arrivals so the walk down the harbour is timed to perfection. Always. Good, eh?
Friday sees the fleet's arrival earlier than weekdays as once landed they wash down properly. Fairy liquid liberally spread, deckwashes pushing all the bits through the scuppers, well used brooms doing the gantry, wheelhouse and anything higher than an arm's stretch and buckets of soapy water and rags doing the hull down to the waterline. Like I said a proper washdown.
Much good natured cranting about is in evidence and although I don't understand a word apart from when they don't like to see foreigners around, it's not difficult to understand the gist of what's going on.
Today they came alongside in dribs and drabs. There was nowhere near as much fish as "usual" and I did my best to look sorry and empathise
but I probably didn't try as hard as I might .
Being left alone I was able to watch to my heart's content, loiter with no intent whatsoever and just watch and take photos.
Last year I had a proper camera with me and every time I lifted it to my eye it was made clear to me that I oughtn't do that. No words but backs turned, young deck hands with deckwash hoses hesitating in their traverse of the deck they were washing and adjacent shoulders closing. With this new gem of a camera no one seems to notice and when they do they smile and one today showed off his t-shirt with an English slogan emblazoned across it. I think it had been worn for a while.
Good natured tolerance of this foreigner with the inane smile was gratefully acknowledged as best it could be with a wave here, a nod there, a gracias, a hola buenos tardes help too. I wish I knew what "any chance of a trip?" is in Spanish. Too late now, though.
Once alongside the gear is stowed and the fish sorted. They all sit aft around the pile of fish and sorting begins. One or two arrange the boxes and stop the octopus escaping, re-sort fish that end up in the wrong box.
It doesn't take long as most of these boats have seven or eight hands and they don't gut any of the catch. Of course, a tribe of "old blokes" leave the net mending to come along to watch, sit and yarn as they too lend a hand. Lots of octopus chasing does have it's amusing moments.
When I was a kid we caught monk and some you could put a two gallon bucket in their mouth. They land monk here that could be put comfortably in a Swan Vesta box.
This photo shows the start of sorting, crabs you would put back in the mulley pool and look at the monk who's tail overhangs the deckwash hose! That's not a small one by these standards, either.
In no time at all these boxes are full and eventually 20-30 are put ashore and taken on a trolley to the market into which I can not go. I have tried and failed without a word being spoken.
Last week there would have been 30-50 boxes, maybe many more especially from the bigger 25m boats, next week there probably will be again but for now the landings are down by 30% according to the local paper and the fishermen have lost over €500 a boat since the "storms" of last week. I jest not, the local (English translation) paper says so.
I do try to feel sorry, really, I do but there's no tide so they work office hours, they have shelter decks but it's mostly a shelter from sunshine and if last week's "storm" was enough to keep them in last Friday and Monday (they stay ashore Saturday and Sunday anyway) I'd worry if any of them ever seen some of the poor weather that get's worked in from Brixham, Newlyn or anywhere else above 50⁰N. Even the Frenchmen know about poor weather and I guess that these men do as well.
It's just relative values of "poor" isn't it?
Come Wednesday and we'll know all about poor weather again, too.
Not many more glasses on the balcony I'm afraid.
Can't wait.
Couldn't ever have taken these with my Canon, though. So chuffed with the new camera, just don't mention batteries .....
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